Sunday 17 November 2019

VARANASI Take Ghat

That evening we went along to Assi Ghat to see the flower candle ceremony performed.

A sizeable crowd had gathered on the darkened steps as a Vic Reeves lookalike MCd the show.

He even had a Bob Mortimer sidekick. In ill-fitting blue satin shirt, greased back hair and dodgy tache, 'Vic' did some very long-winded patter, while a Bez-a-like organised and rabble-roused the crowd.

As the atmosphere got going, the main attraction came on. Five young monks clad in gold silk, waving flaming brass oil lamps around - 11 times clockwise, then a few blows each on a small conch was the procedure, then repeat.






The music was a rhythmic ching--ching-----bonnng from bells and gong, while Vic carried on in a Billy Graham evangelist style, and the crowd chanted and clapped. Our guide lapped it up, getting into it more than us. It was quite surreal.

Reflecting with a less cynical mindset, I found the total experience quite mesmerising, like the perfect Chemical Brothers warm-up track waiting for the big beats, which never arrived - but it was definitely building up.




A flaming torch was carried toward us and people gathered around like moths. We beat a retreat as things turned a bit haphazard, Kim sent off a flower candle into the Ganges, then we both headed for a pizza as the crowds died down.

Vic and Bob occupied the balcony opposite, surveying the aftermath.



ps On a tangential point, I never knew Robbie F William's had recorded a song called Road To Mandalay. There's another thing he's ruined for me, as I like a bit of Mr Kipling.

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