DARJEELING Up The Junction

Of course, it wasn't all bad.

Taking the Toy Train up to the town of Guhm, past the war memorial, for instance.

Built by the Brits early last century, and well maintained since, the steam locomotive left 90 minutes late (another British hangover), giving us time for some people-watching around the rebuilt and very cute, deco-ish station.

Up the hill the train puffed and laboured, whistling as we went.

It was great fun, with lovely views and some fascinating history at the Guhm railway museum.

Best things about Darjeeling were Nawin and Indira, a very caring, kind and helpful couple at whose house we stayed, the Paying Guesthouse, a b*****d to find, but with great views and big breakfasts.

They were a hub for Thai and Nepalese youngsters who came to Darjeeling to study and volunteer. Nawin said they often hosted groups of Indian army soldiers, come to train for mountaineering. We were probably a rare breed, us sheepish westerners, looking to see the sights and ask LOTS of questions.

If only the train had gone past their place.

I know how they felt.