K2: North East Meets East: MUMBAI Building Sights

The bay of Mumbai looks serene in the afternoon haze. Grand and sweeping, the modern skyscrapers form an impressive silhouette a mile away, over the glistening sea.

Much of the mystique is formed by the veil of smog which lies over the city. Air quality is appalling and the populace are slowly choking on fumes.

As close as I'll ever get to a sikhs pack

We're on a boat to the Elephanta caves, on a small nearby island.

Three-headed Buddha plus two

Carved in the fifth century, they are interesting enough, full of the usual Buddhas and assorted cast of players, set in well-kempt grounds, reached through a steeply inclined hill replete with gift/tat stalls.

The three-faced Buddha forms the logo for Maharashtra's tourist board.

We spend an interesting few hours here, being entertained by greedy monkeys and cows who are very keen on our lime sodas. They enjoyed them very much.

Back in town we had breakfasted at much-touted Leopold's, but it was a little pricey and they struggled to deliver egg and chips twice.

Also v pricey was London-themed Churchills cafe, with Winston-emblazoned menus and London prices to boot. We made our excuses and left.

Mumbai wasn't cheap, but we did find Kailash Parbat, a stylish little upstairs retreat where we received attentive service, lovely grub and 'normal' prices.

Gate of India by night...

...and day

Our third and final day led us on an architectural walk to discover some classic Art Deco insurance buildings in town, along with Saracenic museums, bits of Nouveau, a Georgian 'crescent' and some Indian beauties running together hugger mugger.

Dosas R Us

Egyptian ragga

Victoria train station 'Terminus'...

...and Crawford Market

After dosas at another little gem of a restaurant, we sought out the Hogwartesque High Court and Big Ben-ish Rajabai Clock Tower.

These lay along one side of the Oval Maidan, where local lads practiced proper cricket in the nets, while others played some lazy overs in the afternoon sun.

On the opposite side of the Oval lies a parade of gorgeous Art Deco apartment buildings, peeling and crumbling now.

These are the real thing, from the lazy, hazy pre-war, pre-Partition 1930s, when residents dreamed of Green Fields, Fairlawns, Queens Courts and Sunshine before heading out for a movie at the Eros cinema on the end of the parade.

It is very sad and frustrating to see such artistic cultural icons of the period fade away so unloved and uncared for. Betjeman would weep.

India seems to have little idea of, or perhaps interest in, how to maintain its treasures. An international handout from UNESCO or suchlike would probably do the trick.